One of London’s greatest attractions: the array of buzzing markets that pop up across the city every weekend, each with its own group of fans. Every tourist ever loves Borough Market, which has been chockablock with food stalls since the 11th century. East London hipsters leave Columbia Road’s flower market with bunches of eucalyptus and hydrangea in their arms. And Londoners looking for an all-day destination head to Bermondsey, where a bunch of upstart markets and weekend-only distilleries, breweries, and bakeries are ingeniously carved into the arches under a railroad track—and make the perfect complement to the neighborhood’s more traditionally designed cafés, restaurants, and shops. And while less visited than other parts of London, it’s still central: Bermondsey is a ten-minute walk southeast from Tower Bridge.
Here, the perfect Saturday itinerary.
10 A.M. CoffeeStart with a coffee at Monmouth’s Saturday-only café under an archway off Spa Road. Though the storied coffee roaster’s Borough Market and Covent Garden locations can draw round-the-block lines, this one is sleepy and secret—an ideal place for a quiet pour-over coffee under the awning out front. Arch 3 Spa North, between Dockley Rd. and Spa Rd.; monmouthcoffee.co.uk
10:30 A.M. CroissantDuring the week, the Little Bread Pedlar’s team of bakers deliver croissants, bread, and cakes via bicycle to choice cafés across London. And on Saturdays, the bakery itself opens to the public. At mid-morning, you can still snag the best almond croissant you’ve ever had or a loaf of savory focaccia for later; most everything sells out by the afternoon. Swing by the neighboring archways in the Spa Terminus Market to chat with the producers of local honey, jam, meat, cheese, and beer. Arch 4-6, Spa Business Park, Dockley Rd.; lbpedlar.com
11:30 A.M. ArtMake your way to Bermondsey Street, a charming cobblestone stretch of boutiques, cafés, and restaurants that also includes the White Cube (above), a stark 1970s warehouse turned blue-chip gallery. Even without the art, the building is impressive; a 2011 renovation by London- and Berlin-based Casper Mueller Kneer Architects yielded three vast, high-ceilinged galleries. 144-152 Bermondsey St.; whitecube.com
12:30 P.M. LunchThe area’s main attraction is Maltby Street Market (above, one of its vegetable purveyers), which started as a Borough Market offshoot for vendors who couldn’t afford rising rents. Today, its 30-odd stands sell everything you could dream of consuming, from steak and chips to face-sized chocolate-chip cookies to green juice. Two favorites: the bacon sandwich from St. John, a classic British breakfast done right, and the Cheese Truck’s twist on grilled cheese made with goat’s cheese, honey, rosemary, and walnut. After you’ve had your fill, peruse the English eccentricities (bottles, bells, bookcases, and boat fixtures) in Maltby Street’s Lassco Ropewalk, an antiques shop.
2:30 P.M. GinJensen distills gin using centuries-old recipes in an archway across from Maltby Street Market on Millstream Road. The distillery also serves drinks; order a gin and rose lemonade and enjoy it on one of the picnic tables out front. 55 Stanworth St.; bermondseygin.com
3:30 P.M. SnackPeckish? Stop by the new Druid Street Market, around the corner from Maltby Street, for a snack from one of another dozen or so local purveyors. Slurp down a few of Decatur’s spicy, garlicky char-grilled oysters, and buy some of Fatties bakery’s caramels, sherbet, or salted-caramel peanut butter to bring home. 126 Druid St.; druid.st
3:30 P.M. BeerBermondsey has recently become known as home to some of the best independent craft breweries in London. Kernel, the original Bermondsey brewer, no longer serves beer at the brewery, but you can bar-hop between three of its newer contemporaries: Partizan Brewing (8 Almond Rd.), Anspach & Hobday (118 Druid St.), and UBrew (24 Old Jamaica Rd.), which all make interesting (and in some cases potent) craft beers.
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6:30 P.M. RamenThere’s a two-hour wait for a table at Bone Daddies’ original Soho location on a Saturday night. But its hidden Bermondsey outpost—under an archway next to the UBrew brewery—pops up every Saturday for walk-ins from the area. The savory tonkatsu ramen, made with pork bone broth cooked for 20 hours, is just what you need after your brewery crawl. 24 Old Jamaica Rd.; bonedaddies.com
8:30 P.M. NightcapEnd your day back on Bermondsey Street with a drink at Village East (above), a homey, busy restaurant and cocktail bar. Order a well-mixed old-fashioned or a zingy barrel-aged mix of gin, vermouth, elderflower, balsamic vinegar, and orange bitters, and toast a day off the well-trod tourist path. 171-173 Bermondsey St.; villageeast.co.uk
