Travel

Follow in Leonardo da Vinci's Footsteps Exactly 500 Years After His Death

The 900-mile journey, from the rolling hills of Italy to a charming town in France, traces the artist’s life and work while providing scores of exhibitions timed with the anniversary
exterior of a large home surrounded by trees at dusk
Château du Clos Lucé, in Amboise, France, was once the home of Leonardo da Vinci, and where he died on May 2, 1519.Photo: Léonard de Serres

It's been said that on his deathbed on May 2, 1519, Leonardo da Vinci lamented his life’s purpose, saying, “I have offended God and mankind because my work did not reach the quality it should have.” We may never know the accuracy of that screenplay-deserving quote nor how the man—celebrated as painter, sculptor, scientist, inventor, and architect—perceived his life’s work. What is certain, even given his famously fertile imagination, is that the Renaissance master could hardly have conceived of his capacity to inspire the world, five centuries after death. Today, the insatiable curiosity which propelled da Vinci forward sends us on a journey to trace the path he blazed with pivotal periods in Florence and Milan and his final stop in the Loire Valley in France.

From a rural Tuscan farmhouse where he was born to the Louvre’s hallowed halls, cultural institutions across Europe are marking the quincentenary of his death with special events staggered throughout 2019. It should be noted, this unprecedented concentration isn’t without controversy, raising questions about who has claim to the artist’s legacy. For those who believe da Vinci’s artistry and humanism are universal, these special exhibitions allow us to follow the development of his work like never before while walking in his footsteps through the landscapes that served as a lifelong muse.

Vinci, the Italian town that's the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci.

Photo: Getty Images/Gjon Mili

In nature’s simplicity, da Vinci discovered the ultimate sophistication (Vinci, Italy)

Our journey begins amid the olive groves and vineyards of rural Tuscany near the country home where Leonardo da Vinci (of Vinci) was born. Young Leonardo’s inquisitive spirit led him to ramble along river banks where his fascination with water, light, and movement took root in the symbiosis of nature’s magic and mechanics.

The region’s yearlong celebrations center around Museo Leonardiano, partially housed within a ship-shaped castle that has characterized the village of Vinci since centuries before the artist’s time. The exhibition, "At the Origins of the Genius," (April 15–October 15), showcases one of his earliest known works, Landscape Drawing for Santa Maria Della Neve (1473), which depicts the nearby mountains of Montalbano and the Nievole River Valley. The drawing, on loan from the Uffizi Gallery and viewable for the first time in the depicted setting, is our first indicator of the fluidity that would soon define his work. The elegance of water swirling and slopes ascending showcase his unique duality, even at this early age in the balance of artistic expression and technical precision.

Vitruvian Man (circa 1490), by Leonardo da Vinci, is a drawing that demonstrates the proportions of the human body.

Photo: Getty Images

We also find the oldest collection of da Vinci–imagined machines and models, including studies on textile weaving, war machines, and, his greatest obsession, the dream of man in flight. For Insta-worthy images, climb 124 steps to the terrace for panoramic valley views or selfie with Vitruvian Man, a scale-model created by Italian sculptor Mario Ceroli.

A scenic ten-minute drive or 30-minute hike through olive groves—the ultimate way to follow in da Vinci’s footsteps—brings us to Anchiano, where in the artist’s birthplace, La Casa Natale di Leonardo, a hologram da Vinci shares his story and passion for the natural world. Humble, yet informative, the home is worth the stop for sublime setting alone.

Tips: Purchase tickets on-site, but download the Museo Leonardiano app in English prior to visiting. Casa Natale is included in the price. Vinci’s tourism office offers trail maps, including Sentiero dei Mulini (Mill Path, n.16) and Strada Verde (Green Route, n. 14).

Da Vinci’s joyous and noble pursuit of understanding (Florence, Italy)

In 1466, 14-year-old Leonardo set out on his first worldly adventure to the creative nexus of Florence (today, it's an hour’s drive from Vinci). The budding artist would receive hands-on education in painting, sculpting, drafting, and engineering as an apprentice in the studio of rock star artist-of-the-day Verrocchio. Da Vinci’s early Florence years were marked by experimentation, innovation, and collaboration. From this incubator, he produced works that went on to define the Renaissance era. Though the Uffizi Gallery’s blockbuster exhibit, featuring the notebook Codex Leicester closed in January, the permanent collection is vital for understanding the artist’s evolution. A new space, opened in 2018, illuminates three of the most revered paintings: the collaborative masterpiece The Baptism of Christ (1475), commissioned for San Salvi Church; the recently restored Annunciation (1472–75); and the beloved, unfinished work Adoration of the Magi (1481).

Annunciation (1472–75) by Leonardo da Vinci, oil on wood.

Photo: Getty Images

For deeper insight into Renaissance methodology, Palazzo Strozzi and the Bargello present "Verrocchio, Master of Leonardo" (March 9–July 14). Central Florence is also home to two small da Vinci–centric museums. Younger kids will enjoy the interactive imagination zones and working models at Museo Leonardo da Vinci (on Via Cavour). From a different angle, we see how intensive studies of the human body impacted his work at Leonardo da Vinci Museum (on Via dei Servi), often referred to as Le Macchine, with life-size models highlighting his explorations of human capability. We can experience Florence’s natural wonders while contemplating one of the artist’s most ambitious projects with a stroll along the Arno River’s tranquil southern bank, near Park Albereta. Da Vinci’s revolutionary plan to divert the river and connect this city he loved with the Mediterranean Sea came centuries before the technology existed, a reoccurring theme of much of his life’s work.

Tip: Reserve tickets to major shows in advance online.

Yearning to produce propelled da Vinci forward (Milan)

The artist moved to Milan in 1482 to work for Ludovico, the Duke of Milan, with fire in his belly. With ample funding, a studio, and apprentices of his own, da Vinci entered a fruitful period. He completed six known paintings along with studies, models, sketches, and, characteristically, many unfinished works, while also serving as a technical advisor to the Duke. Marquee projects include a massive-scale, nature-inspired wall and ceiling mural in Castello Sforzesco (circa 1498).

The masterwork’s highly anticipated restoration and reopening in Sala delle Asse (Room of Wooden Boards) is the centerpiece of nine months of citywide celebrations (May 2, 2019–January 2, 2020), dubbed "Milan and Leonardo." Other noteworthy exhibits within the castle include a virtual tour of "Leonardo’s Milan," immersing visitors in the late 15th-century cityscape.

The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where da Vinci's famous Last Supper can be viewed.

Photo: Getty Images

Naturally, any journey should include a viewing of the Last Supper (1498) within the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Modern art lovers can experience the Last Supper after Leonardo, as the Stelline Foundation spotlights da Vinci’s impact on contemporary artists, including Anish Kapoor and Zhang Huan (April 1–June 30).

Tips: Advance reservations are essential for viewing the Last Supper, particularly during peak times (reservations can be made for July and August, beginning in May). For a comprehensive overview of events planned in the Lombardy region, visit this site.

The iconic I.M. Pei–designed glass pyramid in front of Paris's Louvre Museum, home to da Vinci's Mona Lisa.

Photo: Getty Images/Olivier Ouadah

Art is da Vinci’s portal to immortality (Paris and the Loire Valley, France)

An overnight train or 90-minute flight brings us to Paris, where the Louvre’s collection showcases a third of his known paintings, including the Mona Lisa (1503) and 22 drawings, along with historic loans, most notably drawings from the Royal Collection of Queen Elizabeth II for the unprecedented retrospective Leonardo da Vinci (October 24, 2019–February 24, 2020).

Our journey culminates 140 miles southwest of Paris (one hour by train) in Amboise for the last stop of his life journey. Da Vinci was enticed to the estate Château du Clos Lucé with the promise of space and funding to create works for King Francis I. He died in Amboise on May 2, 1519.

Inside of da Vinci's bedroom at Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, France.

Photo: Courtesy of Château du Clos Lucé/Léonard de Serres

Celebrations include an imagination festival on May 2 and "Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper for Francis I, a Masterpiece in Silk and Silver" (June 6–September 8), featuring 30 works from the collection and monumental loans, including the centerpiece Last Supper tapestry, commissioned by Francis I and later gifted to Pope Clement VII. This is the first time since the 16th century this piece has been exhibited outside of the Vatican Museum. (The work then travels to Milan’s Palazzo Reale for exhibition from October 7, 2019, through January 12, 2020.)

Also on-site, "Leonardo da Vinci's Universe" features two floors dedicated to painting and architecture. The latter space includes interactive studies and plans for basilicas, domes, and fortresses as well as his late-life obsession: creating the ideal château.

A peek inside da Vinci's study at Château du Clos Lucé.

Complete the journey with a stroll along Parc Leonardo da Vinci’s nature trails, where model flying machines dot the landscape like rides at an amusement park. No setting exemplifies his insatiable curiosity with such joy and playfulness as this open-air museum, a fitting tribute to the artist whose path was fueled by creative wanderlust and whose legacy continues to inspire us 500 years later.

Tips: Reserve a time slot well in advance for visiting the Louvre. Buy fast-track tickets for the Château du Clos Lucé online. For an overview of major events planned in France, visit this site.